The Cooking Diva Blog: Original Tropical Creations by Chef Melissa De Leon

Latin America's Best: Juan Deago's Panamanian Cocada

Thank you TasteEverything.org for organizing this event, and for giving us the opportunity to let the world know about one scrumptious creation and its maker. This is our contribution. We invite you to read further and learn about a Master Artisan from Panama, well known in this land for preparing the best cocadas.

When I asked Juan Deago how old he was, he said with a picturesque smile that he didn't remember. It was then when I knew he was my kind of person: after 28, my age counting special clock stopped. I do not have a clue of how old I am or when did his age counting clock died, but one thing I sure know: Mr. Deago is a living legend and the role model for generations that refuse to let go the pride for our roots and the magic of transforming a simple food into a delicacy. Food for the gods of the tropics, food for the soul and what it really means to love the land that gave us a home. One of the few who is willing to share the most treasured secrets in order to let this marvelous tradition go on.

It was a long drive from Panama City to Monagrillo, the town where Juan Deago and his legend live. Almost four hours of drive, good thing that we left Panama City at 6 AM. The cool morning breeze and the stories I have heard of him guided us to find his house. It was just luck, because we arrived too early and Mr. Villalobos, Kelly's father, was expecting us to arrive at 1 PM to take us to see his uncle.

I normally can not find my car in a ~~empty~~ parking lot, but that day I found Tio Juancho. He was there, sitting in a chair in his patio. I parked my car under a tree, so my mom and my little niece didn't roast under the fiery sun. It was 10:30 Am when I walked up to him. I asked if he knew Juan Deago, the one famous for making the most delicious cocadas. Puzzled still he replied that he was the one I was looking for. Then he smiled! "How did you find me?" he replied. "I do not know, but if you believe in miracles, this obviously was one of them."

He sang the songs and recited the poems his mother taught him when he was only eight years old. I got goose bumps all over my body,...truly amazing is that he is so sharp! Looking through his eyes I saw that young child, full of life and perennially in love with his land and its infinite wonders.

He told me about his mother. He said that she lived to be nighty- three, and that she made cocada almost until the last day of her life. She raised her nine children, by herself, just with the small profits of making and selling her truly unique cocada and "cabanga" in town. Cocada is a traditional Latin American dessert made with coconut and molasses in this case. Cabanga is a sweet made with green papaya and molasses. They are both delicious to the last bite.

Juan Deago is the living legend of a dream, the original soul of the land. He is my "cocada hero!" He showed me the small kitchen, with ashes that could tell the most amazing stories from the long gone times. I even saw in the ground an engraved stone sign with his last name on it. Then I asked,..."Tio Juancho, what is that?" He looked at me, and said that it was a piece of his father's grave. It was somehow broken and they had to replace it. How this little piece ended there, I do not know. No special magic meaning I guess..., it was just there.

To make this already marvelous story even more interesting, I've got to tell you about Angelita Deago. She is Tio Juancho's sister and a very talented cook and poet too. It seems to me that these gifts run in the family. Angelita has been famous in Panama for preparing the best chorizos. Marianne, Kelly's mother, wrote an amazing piece on this amazing woman.

Thank you Kelly for letting us know about your uncle. Thank you Ruben for sharing the source of your inspiration, the same one that led you to the writing of the poem "Tio Juancho." Thank you Marianne for your support and for translating Ruben's poem into Spanish from English.

I feel honored for having the opportunity to meet Tio Juancho in person. I feel honored for the warm welcome, for the authentic smile, for the poems, for the songs, and specially for the most marvelous cocada I have ever had in my humble life.

I have tried many, all over the world, but no other cocada matches the flavor, texture, consistency and the aroma of his. This is truly the best of its kind, and it is worth this award for 1.5 centuries of making the best cocada ever, and for pairing it with the most sublime poems and songs that celebrate life and love.

God bless you Juan Deago and Gracias!

With Love,

Melissa

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Tags: coconut, food blogs, cookingdiva, chef, panama, 2006 Independent Food Festival Awards, food & drink, food, cocada

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by Chef Melissa - CookingDiva · March 06, 2006 · 09:30 PM
Permalink · Comments (30) · TrackBack (0) · Categories: Food & Drink · Food Blog Events · General · RECETAS - Postres · RECIPES: desserts · Tropical Fruit and Vegetables

Chef,

Thank you so very much for this moving tribute. I know mi tio's eyes sparkled as he sang his stories to you. It has been a couple of years since I've seen him, but today, as I read this entry, I could taste his cocada, interrupted by the melodic crackling of his voice and the smell of the fire.

I also know that mi abuelita didn't make cocada for at least a decade before she died. But then again, I'm sure this wasn't the first time mi tio stretched the truth to impress a senorita!

Thanks again!

Comment by: nebur • Mar 6, 2006 11:57:45 PM

My eyes are a bit teary as I write this commment. What an honor for my Tio Juancho. Melissa, thank you for finding Juancho and telling his story. We have always thought that he was a special man, now everyone else will know about him. I know that he will be tickled pink to know that he is on the internet!!! ¡Gracias amiga!

Comment by: kelly • Mar 7, 2006 12:13:29 AM

Thank you, Melissa for such a tribute to our family and to a memorable man. I think it is also a great idea to bring to life the authentic roots of a culture and a perhaps forgotten time when so much these days is pre-packaged, homogenized and plastic.

Comment by: kjerringa mot strommen • Mar 7, 2006 1:23:24 AM

Wow! What a beautiful post Melissa, Congratulations!
Abrazos,
Elena

Comment by: Elena Hernández • Mar 7, 2006 8:07:24 AM

Hi Melissa - what a wonderful tribute to this man and the joy he has brought to others over the years. Thank you!

Comment by: elise • Mar 7, 2006 11:13:54 AM

It was my pleasure!!! We had a great time, and we are planning to go back there to give Tio Juancho a hard copy of the award. I'll keep you posted! Hugs,
M

Comment by: melissa_cookingdiva • Mar 7, 2006 11:13:56 AM

Lovely post! What a pleasure to read. Thank you!

Comment by: Prim • Mar 7, 2006 2:52:16 PM

What a beautiful tribute and story, Melissa. I loved the way you wrote it and the way you brought everyone and all of the sights, smells, sounds, and taste alive for us. Thank You so much for sharing!

Comment by: Michelle • Mar 7, 2006 6:40:23 PM

Melissa,

What a wonderful piece you have written. I couldn't keep from posting a part of it on my site directing my readers to read it on your site. I was most taken by the poem.

Comment by: Don Ray • Mar 7, 2006 8:40:51 PM

When I think of the delicious desserts from Panama, I always remember the "cocada." Thanks to people like Juan Deago we have kept our traditions, and thanks to people like Chef Mely we learn more about them.

Comment by: dogj • Mar 7, 2006 9:29:31 PM

Melissa, this post is wonderful, I would like to try Tío Juancho Cocadas. In Venezuela we called them "conservas de coco" and I love them.

Comment by: Eliana • Mar 7, 2006 10:46:01 PM

Beautiful post. Thank you.

Paz

Comment by: Paz • Mar 7, 2006 11:59:05 PM

Too often we meet people, think they are nice but never take the time to know their story. I really loved your article. It shows that young people should know their history and the history of the things we take for granite day-to-day. Great stuff!

Comment by: Vickie • Mar 8, 2006 9:37:39 AM

That is a beautiful post Melissa. Thank you so much for sharing.

Comment by: gemma • Mar 8, 2006 12:12:19 PM

Bueno Melissa, gracias por la interesante historía del Tío Juancho. De verdad que tenemos que preservar nuestras costumbres y tradiciones y el tío es uno de los que hace su parte. Le habrá enseñado a alguien su receta para que no se pierda?

Comment by: Antonio Touriño • Mar 9, 2006 12:57:39 PM

Hola Antonio! ...más que una receta, es la técnica en si la que cuenta en este caso----Super interesante. Pronto escribo sobre eso :) Abrazos,
M

Comment by: melissa_cookingdiva • Mar 9, 2006 1:02:10 PM

what a great story melissa. you are very lucky indeed. now if only i knew what was in cocadas. is it a kind of meatball? thanks for sharing that wonderful story. you've inspired me to go out and find a legend myself :)

Comment by: mona • Mar 12, 2006 1:49:57 PM

I just found this site...it's fantastic!

When I was a child living in Panama we used to stop at roadside stands around Christmas time to get a drink. It was very dark red (almost garnet) with a sweet-tart taste. I believe that ginger root and sugar were added to the juice. Can someone tell me the name of the fruit that was used in the drink?

Thanks,
Carrie

Comment by: Carrie • Mar 12, 2006 4:25:09 PM

Dear Mona: the cocada is a Latin American dessert made with coconut, molasses and spices in this case. Will post a recipe in a few days when I go back to my office in Panama :)

Dear Carrie: I believe that you are referring to "saril," also known in Mexico as "Flor de Jamaica". It is a tea made with the flower of this plant, ginger root and other magic ingredients in Panama. It is delicious served clod. Will post a recipe soon :)

Hugs and thank you for your visit!

Comment by: melissa • Mar 12, 2006 8:43:34 PM

Really a wonderful post. I hadn't heard of this type of dessert before.

Comment by: kalyn • Mar 13, 2006 8:41:21 AM

Congtratulations to the greatest chef in blogland - my only disppointment is when am I going to have the chance to taste just one dish!

un fuerte abrazo
sokari

Comment by: sokari • Mar 13, 2006 3:31:28 PM

Thank you Sokari! You will see, this year you will at least one of my dishes. Abrazos,
M

Comment by: Melissa • Mar 13, 2006 8:23:15 PM

Thanks for the information, Melissa. I'll keep watch for the recipe...yummmm.

Comment by: Carrie • Mar 13, 2006 10:30:58 PM

Melissa, just read Global Voices and saw that you had won for best Latin America Weblog. Woo Hoo. Well deserved. Congrats.
xxx

Comment by: kalyn • Mar 13, 2006 11:22:21 PM

Melissa!!!
Antes de dormir (zzz...) quise venir a tu blog a felicitarte por tu premio Best Latin American Weblog!!!
Te lo mereces porque trabajas duro. Espero que lo celebres como loca y que te lleguen muchos reconocimientos más.
Sigue adelante,

Jackie

Comment by: Jacqueline • Mar 13, 2006 11:46:48 PM

Congratulations, Melissa! Keep up the brilliant work.

Comment by: Nic • Mar 13, 2006 11:49:33 PM

how come im not in any of the pics panama timbo.

Comment by: tim keenan • Mar 27, 2006 10:04:05 PM

Panama Tim,...we will explain it to you when you come back here to visit :) Sooo??? when is that going to be???

Comment by: melissa_cookingdiva • Mar 27, 2006 10:52:36 PM

Do you have a recipe for Cabanga? Are these the ones that
were sold with a green leave surrounding it?

Would appreciate your recipe. Thanks.

Comment by: Deborah • Jan 7, 2007 8:42:42 PM

Yes, you are right. Cabanga is a "traditional sweet or candy" made with green papaya and molasses, and then wrapped in a banana or bijao leave. I'll post the recipe soon! Happy new year!

Comment by: melissa_cookingdiva • Jan 8, 2007 5:55:19 AM